setup

ROAMiQ 12A Heater Controller: wiring, setup and FAQ

Wire and set up the ROAMiQ 12A Heater Controller for a 12V heated floor mat, such as the Hardsider HardVan tent floor: fusing and 12 AWG wiring, heat levels, auto-off, fault meanings and specs.

What this device does

The ROAMiQ 12A Heater Controller is a single-channel controller for 12V heating loads that are purely resistive, like a heated floor mat. It turns the mat on and off slowly over a set time window to hold your chosen heat level. It's completely silent, with no relay clicking. It measures the mat's current, voltage and resistance while it heats, and shuts off if something looks wrong.

One application is the heated floor in a Hardsider HardVan pop-top tent.

What's in the box

  • ROAMiQ 12A Heater Controller (SKU RQ-PWM-SCH)

Before you start

  • A 12V heated floor mat (for a Hardsider HardVan tent, the tent's built-in floor mat)
  • One heater controller per mat
    • Mat feed: battery + to the mat. Fuse: 15A
    • Controller feed: battery + to 12V +, for the controller's own power only.
  • 12 AWG wire for the mat run (fuse to mat, and mat to PWM −) and for the ground wire from 12V − to the negative bus
  • Wire for the controller feed: 18 AWG
  • 18–22 AWG wire for an optional wall switch
  • A ROAMiQ system with the ROAMiQ app

How much current your mat draws

MatCurrent at 12VCurrent while charging (14.4V)
100 cm heated mat6.7Aabout 8A
150 cm heated mat[CONFIRM: real 150 cm mat current, estimated about 10A][CONFIRM: estimated about 12A]

The current goes up with battery voltage, so a mat draws the most while your batteries are charging. You'll see the real number in the app's Mat Current reading once it's installed.

Wiring

Two separately fused feeds: 15A for the mat, and a small fuse protecting the 18 AWG controller feed. Use 12 AWG for the mat circuit and the 12V − return. Leave PWM + empty.

Using the screw terminals

Strip about 7 mm (1/4") of insulation. Loosen the screw, insert the bare wire fully into the opening under it, and tighten firmly. Give each wire a light tug to confirm it is held. A heated mat draws current for hours at a time, so a loose wire on PWM − or 12V − will get hot. Don't skip this.

The terminals and where each one goes

The controller has one 6-position screw terminal. The case labels it in three groups of two, SW, 12V and PWM. From left to right the pins are marked − S − + + −:

#Case groupPin markConnects toWire
1SW−Optional wall switch (either leg)18–22 AWG
2SWSOptional wall switch (the other leg)18–22 AWG
312V−Negative bus (battery negative). Carries the mat's full return current12 AWG
412V+Controller feed: small, separately fused +12V for the controller's own power only18 AWG
5PWM+Nothing. Leave it empty
6PWM−Heated mat − (return)12 AWG

The two − pins in the SW and 12V groups are the same ground connection inside the controller. The − in the PWM group is not a ground. It's the mat's switched return.

The mat current path is: battery + → mat fuse → mat + → mat → mat − → PWM − → controller → 12V − → negative bus. The controller switches the mat's return side (PWM −) to ground to heat, and opens it to stop. 12V + only powers the controller and carries very little current. The mat's current never flows through it, but it does all come back out through 12V −, which is why that ground wire must be 12 AWG.

1

Disconnect the 12V power

Pull the mat fuse or disconnect the house battery.

2

Wire the controller's power and ground

Run the controller feed from its own small fuse at the fuse block to 12V +. Then run 12 AWG from 12V − straight to the negative bus or battery negative. Don't use a thin wire or a chassis ground point here: the mat's full current returns through this wire.

3

Wire the mat

Run 12 AWG from the mat fuse at the fuse block to one mat lead. This is the mat +. Run 12 AWG from the other mat lead (mat −) to PWM −. A resistive mat has no polarity, so either lead can be + or −. Leave PWM + empty.

4

Optional: wire a wall switch

Wire a dry contact, such as a plain momentary push button, between SW S and SW −. It carries no power, so any thin wire is fine. Each tap steps the heat Off → Low → Medium → High → Off. If the controller is showing a fault, a tap clears the fault and leaves the heat Off.

5

Check your work and restore power

Tug every wire. Check that PWM + is empty, the mat's − goes only to PWM −, and 12V − goes to the negative bus in 12 AWG. Then refit the controller fuse and the mat fuse, or reconnect the battery. The controller always starts with the heat Off.

First setup in the ROAMiQ app

6

Add the controller

Add the controller in the ROAMiQ app the same way you add other ROAMiQ devices. It shows up as ROAMiQ Heater.

7

Test it

Check that the controller shows Online. Set Heat Level to High. Within a few seconds Mat Current should show your mat's current (see the table above) and Device Status should read Heating: High. Set Heat Level back to Off.

Heat levels

Heat LevelWhat the mat does
OffNo heat
LowOn for about a half of each cycle
MediumOn for about three forths of each cycle
HighOn all the time

The controller turns the mat fully on and fully off over a slow Cycle Window, 30 seconds by default. For example, on Low with a 30-second window, the mat heats for about 15 seconds, then rests for 15. The floor is heavy enough that it feels like steady warmth. You can set Cycle Window anywhere from 30 to 300 seconds; most people never change it.

Auto-off

The mat never runs forever. Auto-Off turns Heat Level to Off after a set time or a shut off time. The countdown starts when the heat goes from Off to any level. Switching between Low, Medium and High does not restart it. It only resets once the heat goes back to Off.

The heat also turns off when:

  • Power is lost. The controller always starts with the heat Off, even if it was on before. Turn it back on in the app.
  • The controller loses its connection to your ROAMiQ system for more than 2 minutes while heating. This is controlled by the Off When Disconnected setting, which is on by default. Leave it on.
  • A firmware update or a WiFi reset starts.

Device Status and faults

Device Status shows what the controller is doing:

Device StatusMeaning
OffHeat is off.
Heating: Low / Heating: Medium / Heating: HighHeating at that level.
Off: auto-offThe Auto-Off time ran out.
Off: connection lostThe controller lost its connection for more than 2 minutes while heating.
Off: firmware updateA firmware update turned the heat off.
Off: WiFi resetA WiFi reset turned the heat off.
Fault: …A fault turned the heat off. See below.
Warning: current with output offSee the warning below.

If the controller sees a problem while heating, it turns the mat off, shows a Fault in Device Status, turns on Hardware Fault, and stays off until you clear it:

Device StatusWhat it meansWhat to do
Fault: over-currentThe mat drew more than 13A. That's usually a damaged mat, a pinched wire, or a mat that's too big for one controller.Check the mat and its wires for damage. Make sure only one mat is on this controller.
Fault: open matThe controller turned the mat on but almost no current flowed (under 0.5A for more than 3 seconds).Check the mat fuse, the mat's + wire from the fuse block, the mat's − wire on PWM −, the mat's connector, and that the mat lead isn't broken.
Fault: shortThe mat's resistance read far too low (under 0.6 ohms), which points to a short in the wiring or the mat.Power down. Look for a mat wire touching the other one or chassis, or a damaged mat. Don't clear the fault until you find it.
Fault: current sensorThe controller can't read its current sensor, so it won't run the mat blind.Pull the controller fuse for 10 seconds and refit it. If it comes back, contact ROAMiQ support.

To clear a fault, fix the cause first, then set Heat Level to Off, press Clear Fault in the app, or tap the wall switch. The heat stays Off after a clear; pick a level again. The controller refuses to clear while the over-current is still there.

The mat fuse at your fuse block is the last line of defense for the mat circuit. A dead short in the mat wiring can blow it before the electronics react, so double-check the mat wiring before you power up.

Troubleshooting

The mat won't heat at all.

Work through these checks in order.

  1. Check Heat Level in the app. It starts Off after every power loss.
  2. Check both fuses, the mat fuse and the controller fuse. If the controller shows offline, start with the controller fuse; if it's online but the mat stays cold, the mat fuse. Replace a blown fuse only with one of the same rating.
  3. Check that the controller shows Online in the app.
  4. Check Device Status. If it shows a Fault, see the fault table above.
  5. Check the wiring. Confirm 12V + has the fused controller feed, 12V − goes to the negative bus in 12 AWG, the mat's + goes to the mat fuse, the mat's − is tight on PWM −, and PWM + is empty.

The mat stays hot even when Heat Level is Off.

Pull the mat fuse right away. If Device Status shows Warning: current with output off, contact ROAMiQ support. Otherwise, the mat's − wire is reaching ground somewhere other than PWM −. Check that it isn't landed on chassis ground or a ground stud and isn't pinched against the body. The mat's − must go only to PWM −.

The heat turned off by itself.

Check Device Status. It tells you why: Off: auto-off, Off: connection lost, Off: firmware update, Off: WiFi reset, or a Fault. If it just shows Off, the heat may have been turned off manually or there was a power loss.

It keeps showing Fault: open mat.

The controller sees almost no current while it's heating. Check the mat connector and both mat wires. If you just connected a different mat, check its rating; this controller is made for 12V mats.

It shows Fault: over-current when the batteries are charging.

A mat draws more current at charging voltage. Check Mat Current while charging. If it's close to 13A, the mat is too large for one controller. Contact ROAMiQ support.

The floor isn't warm enough on Low.

Step up to Medium or High. The mat takes several minutes to warm up from cold.

The wall switch does nothing.

Confirm the switch is a dry contact wired between SW S and SW −, with no +12V on either wire. Each tap moves one step: Off, Low, Medium, High, then Off again.

Specs

SKURQ-PWM-SCH
Supply12V DC systems (LiFePO4 and lead-acid, including charging voltage up to 14.4V)
LoadOne resistive 12V heated mat, fed from its own fuse and switched on its return (PWM −)
Maximum mat current12A
Over-current shutoff13A
FusingExternal: one mat fuse 15A
SwitchingLow side (PWM −), silent, no relay
Heat levelsOff, Low, Medium, High
Cycle Window30–300 s (default 60 s)
Auto-Off1–12 h (default 8 h)
MeasuresMat current, battery voltage, power, mat resistance
ConnectionWi-Fi (2.4 GHz) to your ROAMiQ system
TerminalsOne 6-position screw terminal, case groups SW / 12V / PWM, pins − S − + + −
Wire12 AWG for the mat run and the 12V − ground; controller feed 18 AWG; 18–22 AWG for the wall switch
PWM + (pin 5)Not used. Leave empty
Case size46.4 × 43.9 × 16.5 mm
Firmware1.0.0 and later

Still stuck?

We are your installer on call. Reach ROAMiQ support and we will walk you through it.