Hardsider HardVan pop-top tent: wiring guide

Pull the fuse for both boards, or disconnect the house battery, so nothing can power up while you work.

Connect tent pin 7 (lift actuators +) to M1 / OUT1 and tent pin 6 (lift actuators −) to M2 / OUT2 on the Advanced Motor Controller, using 14 AWG. Both actuators run together on this one pair. If the tent later opens when you ask it to close, you can fix that in the app; you don't need to rewire.

Connect tent pin 9 (lock actuator +) to M1 and tent pin 4 (lock actuator −) to M2 on the Motor Control Module, using 16 AWG.

Run one 18–22 AWG wire from the Advanced Motor Controller's CN5 pin 2 to the module's SW1, and a second one from the controller's GND to the module's GND terminal between SW1 and SW2. Leave CN5 pin 1 and the module's SW2 unconnected.

The tent's reed switch shares tent pin 12 with the tent LEDs' +, so it can't go straight to the controller through the tent harness. Separate the reed switch's two wires from the harness so the reed is no longer connected to pin 12 or pin 11 [CONFIRM: where the reed leads can be separated on the Hardsider harness]. Connect one reed wire to LSW1 and the other to the GND beside it. The reed is a plain contact, so either wire can go to either terminal.

Before you power up, check the reed with a multimeter on continuity. With the tent closed and locked, note whether the reed is closed (continuity) or open. You'll need that answer in the setup wizard.

Use LSW1 for the lock sensor. LSW2 is the only input left for the drive interlock.

Wire an ignition-switched relay's contact, or another drive signal contact, across LSW2 and the GND beside it. With it set up, the tent won't open while the vehicle is running, and a tent that is opening stops at once. Closing is always allowed. Note whether the contact is closed or open while the engine runs.

Connect the rocker's center (common) leg to the middle GND terminal of the controller's switch block, the open / up leg to SW1 and the close / down leg to SW2. The switch inputs are triggered by connecting them to ground. No power runs through the rocker.

Connect a fused 12V feed to the Advanced Motor Controller's +12V and ground to its GND. Fit a dedicated inline fuse on this feed at the source. The tent profile limits the lift current to 11A, so size the fuse and the wire for that [CONFIRM: fuse rating, e.g. 15A, and wire gauge]. The controller also has its own internal fuse.

Feed the Motor Control Module's +12V and GND from the same fused circuit, after that fuse, so the two boards always lose and regain power together. The lock draws very little current.

Give every wire a light tug, check that CN5 pin 1 and the module's SW2 are empty and that the ground link is in place, then restore power.

Open ROAMiQ setup and go to Equipment → Pop-top tent. Pick the Advanced Motor Controller wired to the tent, then choose the brand Hardsider HardVan tent. This sets the controller's profile and every limit for the tent.

Answer Yes, the lock sensor (reed switch) is wired, choose LSW1, and say whether the contact is closed or open when the tent is closed and locked (your multimeter check from step 5). The wizard sets LSW1 Function to Lock sensor and LSW1 Polarity for you:

• Reed closed when locked: Active when closed to GND
• Reed open when locked: Active when open

If you wired an ignition or drive signal to LSW2, answer Yes and say whether the contact is closed or open while the engine runs. The wizard sets LSW2 Function to Drive interlock. If you didn't wire one, answer No. The controller's Settings Check will show a reminder that no drive interlock is set.

Answer How is the tent's lock wired? with Lock needs reversing (uses a Motor Control Module), choose the Motor Control Module you wired to the lock and press Set up lock module. The wizard sets the module's Profile to Lock follower and checks that the module is using it. From then on the module runs the lock to unlock while SW1 is pulled to ground, and runs it to lock when SW1 is released, which the controller only does after a full close. The module's own open and close controls can't override the controller: they only run the stroke the controller is asking for. The wizard never offers the module that runs your awning.

With the tent stopped, press Current Sense Zero-Cal in the controller's settings.

Press Close (Retract), then Open (Extend), and let each one run the full stroke. Time each stroke, or read Last Run Time after each one. If the tent opens when you asked it to close, press Stop and turn on Invert Direction.

Enter your measured times in Travel Time Open and Travel Time Close. The defaults (76 s open, 68 s close) are only estimates. With the real times, the controller can tell a finished move from a tent that stopped short.

Time one full lock stroke: with the tent closed and locked, press Open and time from the click until the hook stops moving.

• Set the Motor Control Module's Lock Stroke Time to that time plus 2 seconds. It is 8 s by default, which suits a lock stroke of up to 6 seconds.
• Set the controller's Lock or Brake Release Lead to at least that stroke time. The default is 3 s and the minimum is 1 s. Without a lock sensor, this is how long the lift waits for the lock. With the lock sensor wired, the controller lifts as soon as the sensor reads Unlocked, and the lead is the longest it will wait.

With the tent closed and locked, Lock State should read Locked and Lock Command should read Locked. Start an Open: Lock State should change to Unlocked before the roof lifts. Stop the tent partway: Lock Command stays Open. Close the tent fully and confirm the hook engages again, Lock Command reads Locked and Lock State returns to Locked.

Hold the rocker to open and to close. It's hold-to-run: let go at any point and the tent stops, and the lock stays open. The lock only locks after a close that reaches the bottom. Test it once with the WiFi off too. If you'd rather have one press run the tent all the way, set Wall Switch Mode to Latching (one press = full travel, press again = stop) in the controller's settings.